washington, d.c.

I’m not really one for over-hyped places, but I really love Le Diplomate. It’s très Parisien, which also isn’t usually my thing, but holy moly. The beef bourguignon. The baguettes. The butter! Plus, it's the best for people watching. If you like talking heads, you’re almost guaranteed to spot em here. Definitely worth a dinner, also worth a brunch. Make reservations!

The! Pasta! At! This! Place! Oh my stars, y’all. At Sfoglina, they make it all by hand and you eat it on couches off plates that are mismatchy and probably taken from your grandma’s china cupboard and it’s all so delicious that I can only recommend bringing a friend with a big appetite and doing the tasting menu (you’ll get three!).

Ben’s Chili Bowl is iconic. Ask someone about food in DC and it will inevitably come up, usually alongside some story that begins with “one night we were out on U street…” If you’re going in the summer, be prepared to wait in lines out the door—people will wait as long as it takes for one of those amazing half-smokes. 

Cava Mezze is the first place I’ve ever had flaming cheese (aka saganaki) and will forever hold a special place in my heart. It’s delicious Greek mezze, and has spawned fast-casual Chipotle-style pop-ups all over the city called Cava Grill. This place is the original, and is still a sit-down restaurant with a full menu that is fresh, delicious, and worth a stop if you’re in Eastern Market.

I wish I could explain how delicious the food is at Bar Pilar and tell you what to order to experience it for yourself, but they switch their menu up WEEKLY. It’s amazing (and it's Hemingway inspired, which is a whoooole nother level of amazing). The chefs here are so creative, I don’t know what to do with them. Just trust me. 

Rasika is best Indian I’ve had in DC, hands down (Zagat agrees). Make sure you make a reservation if you’re interested—you’ll be waiting forever if you just decide to pop in. Please please please for the love of all that is holy, make sure you order a Chaat (I dream about the spinach one to this day).

Founding Farmers was the spot I brought basically everyone when they came to visit me. My family even had Thanksgiving here (three words: gravy. injected. turkey). Everything is sourced from local farms (see what they did there?) and it just consistently delivers. Great cocktail program here, too.

I think I went to Baked & Wired every Saturday for four months straight. It’s in Georgetown, it’s roll-your-eyes-back-good, and if your name is Kate and you get the dirty chai, they write “dirty Kate” on your cup so, you know, how could you not like this place?

Ah, Ted’s, what good times you and I have had together. Weird dates, long brunches, my first Guinness…*sigh* I love Ted’s. I love Ted’s burgers. I love Ted’s boozy milkshakes. I love Ted’s poptarts. I loved living down the street from Ted’s. I MISS YOU, TED’S!

Ok, yeah, so, the Well Dressed Burrito is literally a hole...in a wall...in an alley...but don’t let that scare you. This place is NOT messing around. Get the Nacho Supreme, you’re welcome.

I’m all about Compass Rose. It’s in a row house, and so cozy—the ambiance is amazing and the back is even tricked out with a tent. The best way I can describe the food is international—it’s really whatever it feels like, and it’s all good. The khachapuri, besides begging to have its picture taken, is really phenomenal, and the Korean shortribs have made me weep.

I don’t think I need to explain this one. Go to District Doughnut, get a half dozen and, whatever you do, make sure that you try the dulce de leche.

I just feel like I would be doing this list a disservice if it didn’t have Ethiopian on it, and Zenebech is my favorite spot in the city. Plus it’s in Adams Morgan, so, trendy!

If you’re into dives and feeling like a local when you’re traveling (and I am), A&D Bar is the spot for you. It’s in Shaw, and they’ve got it all—gummy bears in jars, friendly bartenders, cocktails named after 90s one hit wonders, etc. etc. etc.

Ermagad, the Sovereign. If you’re in the mood to drink a lot of beer but want to be a little classier and feel like you’re in a hunting lodge and snack on Belgian delicacies (aka burgers and fries and waffles and mussels etc. etc. etc.), the Sovereign is your best friend. Plus, it’s in Georgetown, and who doesn’t love Georgetown?

Ghibellina is cozy wine bar with great small plates, stone-fired pizza, and snacks. They don’t rush you here if you’re with friends and have approximately three hours of catching up to do, and their happy hour doesn’t mess around.  

Go to Copycat Co. if you’re out on H Street and want a really, really good cocktail, are into ambiance, and want to order dim sum to go along with it (trust me, it works).

So as I said, when I go out, I want a place where I can bring a lot of friends and settle into comfy couches and drink wine and cocktails and probably eat fries at some point without waiters trying to get me to leave so they can turn the table. Add live music and I'll probably move in. Tryst was that place for me in DC.

Many people don’t realize that the Smithsonian isn’t actually one museum, but dozens. Most of the great museums in DC are part of the Smithsonian, and most are free. I repeat: MOST ARE FREE!  I considered listing out each museum as its own entry, but there are just too many. My must-see free museums are the Air & Space Museum, American Art Museum, American History Museum, and National Portrait Gallery. I also highly, highly, highly recommend the Renwick Gallery, Cooper Hewitt, and the Hirshhorn—you have to pay to see these, but they are completely worth it.

I also considered listing out each monument on the National Mall as its own thing, but I’m lazy so I’m just going to tell you that no matter what you do, you need to spend a few hours wandering through the Mall and seeing the incredible monuments surrounding the reflecting pool. Must-sees (among many others) include the Lincoln Memorial, Jefferson Memorial, Washington Monument, Korean War Veterans Memorial, Pentagon Memorial, World War II Memorial, and Vietnam Veterans Memorial.

If you haven’t ever done a tour of the Capitol, it’s really worth booking one (unless you know someone on the inside and they’re willing to give you a guest tour, which is also very fun). It’s gorgeous and impressive from the outside, but the history and tidbits you get inside are well, well worth it, and the Whispering Gallery is always a hit.

 If you are local, for the love of all that is holy, go and get yourself a library card at the Library of Congress (yes, you can!) and spend as much time as possible wandering. It’s amazing. I don’t know how to do it justice. If you’re not local, this is another one of those things that is completely worth a tour, but if you’re strapped for time at least wait in line to pop inside and see the reading room.

The National Archives are kind of hit or miss for me, but if it’s your first time to DC I completely recommend going, if only to see the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution up close and, of course, to reenact some seminal sleuthing from National Treasure. 

Ok I’ll admit it—I’ve never toured the White House, and I don’t think I ever will. I think it’s a bit of a waste of time compared to the rest of the amazing things to see in DC. But if you go to DC and you don’t snap a picture in front of the White House, did you really even go?!

The Newseum is the only paid museum I ever recommend to people (thank you, Smithsonian, for making it easy to be cultured on a budget!), and it’s worth every penny. This museum is dedicated to…you guessed it…the evolution of news, and while I can honestly say that I find most every exhibit interesting, the viewing room with preserved newspapers from famous dates and events is always my highlight. Great views from the top of the museum, too.

Arlington is very special. It’s absolutely huge (over 600 acres) and is the final resting place for soldiers who have given their lives for their country. There’s a lot of history here, a lot of somber remembrance, and a lot of gratitude. I cannot recommend a tour enough to make sure you can really appreciate the sacrifices that have been made and the beautiful ways that Arlington preserves their memories.

Whatever you do, make sure you take the Metro to the Foggy Bottom stop and walk down M Street into Georgetown. I cannot stress how much I love Georgetown, and how beautiful it is. There are great shops here, very historic homes, fantastic restaurants, and the University itself is impressive and lovely. 

I’m all about Eastern Market, which is both an actual market and a general area off a metro stop in Capitol Hill. I lived here when I was a DC resident, and it will always hold a special place in my heart (mostly because of Ted’s!) I recommend going on the weekends with a tote bag and stocking up on produce, art, and lots and lots of pastries. And stroll through the neighborhood, because houses around here are GORGEOUS. 

I used to run through Rock Creek Park park every weekend. It’s absolutely stunning, and will make you forget you’re in the city. It’s one of the nation’s oldest national parks, there are dogs as far as the eye can see, and it’s a great way to get in a hike without having to leave the city. Plus, it’s really, really beautiful. Pro tip: watch out for rollerbladers. 

I know, I know. You’re thinking, lady, this is my first time in DC, you want me to waste my time on kayaking when there are approximately 75 museums and monuments vying for my attention? Yes, I do want you to spend your time doing this and, no, I don’t think it’s a waste. You get a beautiful view of the city (and many monuments) from the water, you’ll get to see the surrounding areas, as well, it’s absolutely beautiful, and for crying out loud, DC is HOT in the summer and you’re going to be really happy that you’re on the water when the humidity is 100% and you have completely soaked through your clothes. You’re welcome.

I’ll admit, I’m not the biggest baseball fan (sue me) but the Nationals are much more of a thing in DC than the Capitols (sigh) and going to a game is really, really fun. The area is up and coming (read: the restaurant scene in the surrounding area is strong), it’s not crazy expensive, and it’s a great date. 

Apparently seeing movies in theaters isn’t really a thing anymore…? I don’t know about that. I’m definitely a fan of seeing movies in theaters, and I’m definitely a fan of E Street Cinema. They do a good job of curating what’s showing—you’ll get your big hits, but you’ll also get the classics and those indie films you hear about from Sundance but don’t always get to see yourself, all while siping Merlot because this place has alcohol (praise).

I hate Lynn Louisa because everything is so beautiful and I can’t buy it all. It’s HAZARD if you’re a clothes horse. I never walk out of here thinking meh—usually I leave trying to figure out how I could sell my organs to get a couple hundred dollars quickly to purchase a new dress I didn’t realize would look that good on me. 

Kramerbooks might be better known, but Capitol Hill Books has my heart. They’ve truly ruined me for used book prices elsewhere—can’t beat the prices or selection here. Books are spilling out of every nook and cranny of this place, and it’s the epitome of what I look for in a used book store. I miss this place a lot.

Aside from walking into Le Labo and immediately feeling the twitch to pull out your phone and Instagram the heck out of this place, you’re also knocked off your feet because it smells so dang good. It’s as perfume store, which means it’s a really fun stop (I’m not kidding. If you haven’t ever killed 30 minutes in a perfume store, you’re not doing it right).

Salt & Sundry is the best if you’re a trinket person (you know who you are) or someone that likes to drop an obscene amount of money on candles. Home goods, accessories, baubles, trinkets, paper, candles…it’s got it all, and you’ll probably want to Instagram it. Plus, it’s in Union Market (read: fooooood!)

If you’re hungry and bored, Kramerbooks is the spot. Part cafe, part bookstore, it does a great job of giving you a place to wander and it’s organized to tell you what you should read based on what you’ve liked in the past. Cake, coffee, Kafka? Don’t mind if I do.

Ok listen, I’m not really one to get my nails done on vacation, so if you’re planning a trip skip this one unless you’re all about pampering yourself. If you’re bougie and have an hour to kill or you’re a local and you haven’t been to this place, GO TO VARNISH LANE. It’s by far one of the prettiest salons I’ve ever seen in my life, you'll be manicured in a leather chair, and they do a fabulous job.

Souk is a very cool international market and bakery. Matcha? Check. Ras el Hanout? Check. Knock-your-socks-off-spicy-chai? Check. Worth a stop just to smell, trust me.

For the gents. Read Wall does custom suits, which is cool and all, but the real winners in here are the ties. They’re just the right amount of patriotic without being overbearing…you have to see it to see what I mean. Guessing this place is an image consultant’s dream when it comes to a young congressman.

The Georgetown Flea Market takes place every Sunday, year-round, and is your stop for the best prices in antiques and is just plain fun to wander.

I love looking through architectural salvage, and GoodWood place makes it look high end by mixing it in with beautiful antiques and mid-century modern finds. Plus, they have impeccably curated perfume, clothes, and handmade shoes, and it looks like a general store. Dig it.

Tiny Jewel Box place has a really impressive selection of vintage jewelry (and amazing engagement rings!) Really fun to pop in and think about what your life could be like if you were married to a Senator.

The famous one. Ever seen the West Wing? Ever seen any TV show or movie about DC? Chances are someone stayed at the Hay-Adams, someone got drinks at the Hay-Adams, or some shady politicking went down at the Hay-Adams. It’s pricey, but it’s so bougie, and it’s right across the street from the White House.

If you’re going to stay in a luxury hotel, the Hay Adams is probably your best bet, but if you want the off chance of getting a better rate try the Jefferson. I like it better than most of the others because there aren’t as many weddings/conferences/events/fundraisers going on at any given night (aka loud, annoying, egomaniacs), it’s newly updated, and you can usually find a pretty good deal if you start trolling Kayak/TripAdvisor/Expedia/etc.

If you’re not into the old-world elegance thing (and don’t want to pay as much, definitely stay at Mason & Rook. It’s a newer Kimpton in Logan Circle that’s trendy, affordable, and within walking distance to the Mall.

This. Hotel. Is. So. Cute. I. Could. Die. It’s in Adams Morgan (think trendy restaurants, shopping) and more affordable than most of the hotels downtown. Close to a Metro stop to get you wherever you need to go, and you’ll be instagramming like a boss the whole time.

So when it comes to B&B’s in DC, you’ll usually hear everyone who's into the B&B scene swooning over Swann House, but I personally think the American Guest House is better. It’s a little bit farther outside the center of the city in Adams Morgan (think trendy restaurants and shopping), but it’s near a Metro stop, it’s cheaper than Swann House, and I think it’s a little more elegant and certainly more comfortable. 

If you want to stay in a B&B but you don’t want to pay as much or be as far removed as the American Guest House, pick Embassy Circle Guest House. It’s cheaper, closer, and still really cozy and oozing charm.